When scrolling through social media, you’ll find no shortage of influencers gushing about the latest buzzy beauty trend you have to try Right. This. Second. Some are fairly straightforward (a little retinol or squalane, anyone?), while others are a bit more intense, like a scary-looking red light therapy mask. And if you have eczema, you might wonder if any of these things might even be an option for you. It’s valid (and smart!) to want to take it slow. After all, your skin is a lot more sensitive than most people’s—so stuff that wouldn’t be a problem for them might be for you.
But there’s some good news, beauty fans: While not all viral trends pass the eczema test, some can actually make your skin both look and feel pretty good. But how do you know which ones to try—and which to keep scrolling past? Here, dermatologists break it down.
Three buzzy beauty techniques that are safe to try with eczema
When it comes to those masks we mentioned, red light gets the green light—no pun intended. The glowing wearable device exposes your skin to low-wavelength red light (a form of LED light therapy), which can potentially help reduce inflammation.
Larissa Olsen, who has had eczema for 25 years with symptoms mostly on her hands, face, and elbows, has been loving hers—she tells SELF that she’s been wearing it two to three times per week for the past several months. “If I’m experiencing dryness or redness, it’s usually gone or significantly improved the next day [after using the mask],” she explains.
While there aren’t specific cautions for people with eczema, it’s still worth remembering that the long-term effects of repeated LED light exposure are unknown, George Han, MD, a dermatologist at Northwell Lenox Hill Hospital in New York City, tells SELF.
Ice rollers and globes—two handheld tools you stick in the freezer and then use to massage your face—get two thumbs up for people with eczema, according to Dr. Han. That’s because they rely on cold therapy, which helps soothe itchy skin and cut down on inflammation. “We actually recommend ice or cold packs for stubborn itchy areas during flare-ups,” he says, noting that it helps calm the nerves responsible for the irritation. Just be sure to actually roll it—as opposed to stopping at one spot—or use it with a barrier (say, a light cloth) to avoid any burning sensations.
Olsen can attest to the benefits of ice rollers, as they are her go-to for “flare care” and adds that “when my skin is at its worst, ice rollers calm it down almost immediately.” She says she sees and feels a difference in her symptoms, particularly when she sweats a lot, which is a common symptom trigger for her. “I always have my ice roller in the freezer ready to go in case a flare strikes,” she adds.
If you’re not experiencing any active flares, Dr. Guttamn-Yassky says it’s okay to try an IPL (intense pulsed light) hair removal device, which uses intense pulsing light to do the job. It’s not quite a laser, but “a really strong flash bulb with a wavelength filter on it,” Dr. Han explains. If you have a darker skin tone, skip this one—it can lead to hyperpigmentation and burns.
Three trends you should steer clear of
This exfoliating technique involves scrubbing with (you guessed it) a brush and no water, serums, or oils. The idea is that you’ll rid your top layer of dry, loose flakes, something that tends to happen frequently with the condition. But dry brushing can really damage eczema-prone skin, says Dr. Han: “While it might seem [helpful], the brush itself could further damage the skin barrier, which is already weakened.”
Olsen has tried dry brushing a few times—with mostly negative effects. It tends to make her itchy skin feel a lot worse, particularly during a flare-up.
If you’ve never heard of them, these are hand-held tools that emit low-level electrical currents that stimulate the muscles for a “microcurrent facial.” You can get it done at a salon, but at-home versions are common, too—SELF previously recommended a few in our 2023 Healthy Beauty Awards.
But you may want to save your money; if you have eczema, the rubbing and friction it can cause might worsen symptoms, Dr. Han says. The repeated pressure can mess with a person’s already-sensitive skin barrier and promote itching, paving the way for a flare-up, he adds. What’s more, microcurrent devices are often used with a primer gel, which could have fragrances and other ingredients (like preservatives) that could irritate things, he adds.
The HydraFacial, a salon treatment that uses a hydradermabrasion device to clean your skin and “vacuum” out gunk from your pores, promises to make you look glowy, radiant, and glass-like. It’s a three-step process: First, it cleanses and exfoliates your face. Then, it suctions gunk from your pores, and, finally, it moisturizes your skin.
HydraFacials are often considered a gentler alternative to microdermabrasion, which uses a more abrasive approach to even things out. However, as Emma Guttman-Yassky, MD, PhD, director of the Center for Excellence in Eczema at Mt. Sinai Hospital in New York City, tells SELF, people with this condition should proceed with caution. That’s because the cleansers and moisturizers could contain some irritating ingredients, and the process overall might feel harsh. (That said, one of our writers with mild eczema loved her HydraFacial results—everyone’s outer layer is different, so it’s best to chat with a derm on this one.)
Having eczema doesn’t mean you need to skip on the skin care fun, it just calls for extra thought and care before trying a buzzy beauty practice. And the next time you’re tempted to try a trend, it’s not a bad idea to check in with a derm first—your skin will thank you.
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